As I wandered down the nostalgic, Edo-era streets of Narai-juku, surrounded by traditional wooden townhouses and timeworn cobblestone paths, the thing I looked forward to most was indulging in the town’s most iconic specialty: the local soul food known as Tōji Soba (とうじそば). For this trip, I made it a point to visit the popular eatery Narai-juku KOKORO OTO (こころ音) right at lunchtime—ready to fully enjoy this cozy dish, perfect for warming up on a cold winter day.
In this post, I’ll walk you through what exactly Tōji Soba is and share my dining experience at KOKORO OTO—one of Narai-juku’s must-visit food spots!
What Is Tōji Soba (とうじそば)?
When it comes to famous foods in Nagano, soba noodles are definitely at the top of the list. But have you ever heard of Tōji Soba?
While it’s technically a type of soba, the way it’s eaten is quite different from the usual cold soba or soba in hot broth. This traditional dish hails from the Kiso region of Nagano and is a cherished part of the local culinary heritage.
The preparation is fascinating: soba noodles are placed into a specially made small bamboo basket called a tōji-kago, then dipped directly into a pot of bubbling hot broth—almost like a soba version of shabu-shabu. The broth itself is made from a rich mix of local vegetables, mountain greens, mushrooms, and chicken, resulting in a deeply savory yet naturally sweet flavor.
Once the soba soaks up all that delicious broth, it’s taken out and eaten together with the hearty ingredients from the soup. The noodles are delightfully smooth with a nice chewy bite, carrying hints of dried bonito and the aroma of fresh vegetables. On a chilly day, just one bite is enough to warm your entire body and soul.
Must-Visit Eatery in Narai-juku: KOKORO OTO
KOKORO OTO (こころ音) is a charming little restaurant tucked away on the main street of Narai-juku. It might look unassuming from the outside, with its simple and rustic facade, but it’s constantly filled with hungry visitors.
Step inside, and you’re immediately wrapped in the gentle, nostalgic atmosphere of a wooden Japanese home. With heated low tables, sliding paper doors, and a view of a town seemingly frozen in time, the place truly feels like a scene out of the Edo period—where travelers once bustled through on their journey to Edo (modern-day Tokyo).
The restaurant’s signature dish is none other than Tōji Soba, a specialty of the Shinshu region. It’s so well-loved that even locals travel here just to savor a bowl of this heartwarming seasonal delight.
In one quiet corner of the shop, you’ll also find a small display of everyday tools from olden times, as well as a wall filled with handwritten signatures from past visitors. All of this adds to the charm and shows just how much affection and reputation KOKORO OTO has earned in this historic post town.
✔️ KOKORO OTO（こころ音）
Address 368 Narai, Shiojiri, Nagano 399-6303（Google Maps）
Google Maps Code XR76+R3 Shiojiri, Nagano
Access About 10–15 minutes on foot from JR Narai Station
Opening Hours 11:00 AM – 2:30 PM (Closed on Wednesdays)
Queue at the entrance of KOKORO OTO
Because KOKORO OTO is such a popular spot, it’s not only visited by those who’ve heard of it in advance—passersby often find themselves drawn in by the inviting atmosphere and join the line spontaneously. Before you can enter, you’ll need to write your name down on the waitlist posted outside and wait patiently for your turn to be called.
On the day we visited, the shop unexpectedly announced they would close early at 1:00 PM due to unforeseen circumstances. We were incredibly lucky—we happened to be the last group on the list to make it in. Those who came afterward, unfortunately, had to be turned away. It truly felt like the food gods were smiling on us that day.
A Small Ritual Before You Enter: Removing Your Shoes
Before stepping into this timeworn wooden house filled with warmth and history, each guest is asked to remove their shoes at the entrance. This small ritual not only keeps the interior clean but also sets the tone for a serene and authentic Japanese dining experience—it’s as if you’re crossing into a peaceful moment from the past.
A Heartwarming Soba-Centered Menu
The menu focuses primarily on soba noodle dishes, with their signature Tōji Soba taking center stage. You’ll also find classic hot soba options and creative twists like grated yam soba.
Not in the mood for soba? No problem—there are also set meals that pair onigiri (rice balls) or Gohei Mochi with your dish. You can even order these sides à la carte, allowing you to mix and match based on your appetite.
The Tōji Soba Set Meal
I ordered the one-person Tōji Soba Set (とうじそば) for 1,700 yen (approx. $11 USD), which comes with a pot of hot broth and a serving of soba noodles in a small bamboo basket.
Once the broth starts boiling, you dip the basket of soba into the pot for about 10 seconds, then lift it out and enjoy. It’s a hands-on experience that makes the whole meal even more fun and memorable.
The noodles soak up the broth beautifully—smooth, chewy, and packed with flavor. Paired with mushrooms, chicken, and cabbage from the soup, each bite feels like a warm embrace from the mountain countryside.
The Vegetable Tempura Soba Set
My boyfriend ordered the Vegetable Tempura Soba Set. As usual, we opted for different dishes so we could share and taste a wider variety.
You can choose between one or two servings of soba (called ichi-mai or ni-mai), and we went for two—so the soba was presented in a double-layered tray, making for a generous portion.
The set includes soba dipping sauce, tempura sauce, and three condiments: white scallion, wasabi, and grated ginger. You can mix and match to create your preferred flavor combination.
This was a cold soba dish, with both the noodles and sauce served chilled. The soba here had an exceptionally smooth and springy texture, and the dipping sauce was refreshingly light—not overly salty like some chain restaurants. Even though I don’t usually enjoy cold soba, I completely fell for this one.
Don’t Miss the Gohei Mochi
Gohei Mochi is a beloved traditional snack from the Chubu region (including Nagano and Yamanashi), and you’ll see plenty of little shops selling it along the streets of Narai-juku. While each place has its own take, the version served at KOKORO OTO is one I wholeheartedly recommend.
Both my boyfriend and I loved the rich sesame flavor—sweet and savory with a deep, nutty aroma. Whether you treat it as a small dish to go with your meal or as a dessert, it’s dangerously addictive. We even asked if we could buy just the sesame sauce to take home, but sadly, they don’t sell it separately. It’s one of those flavors you just have to hold onto in your memory.
If you’re planning a visit to Narai-juku
If you’re planning a visit to Narai-juku not just for the historic ambiance but also to experience the local culture through its flavors, then a meal at KOKORO OTO is a must. The Tōji Soba and Gohei Mochi aren’t just food—they’re part of the region’s story. Especially in the cold season, a steaming bowl of soba warms not just the body but also the heart. I highly recommend stopping by to experience this rustic taste of the Shinshu mountains.
✔️ KOKORO OTO（こころ音）
Address 368 Narai, Shiojiri, Nagano 399-6303（Google Maps）
Google Maps Code XR76+R3 Shiojiri, Nagano
Access About 10–15 minutes on foot from JR Narai Station
Opening Hours 11:00 AM – 2:30 PM (Closed on Wednesdays)
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