Last Updated on 2026-03-01 by Tsubaki
This time, I came to Kanazawa from Tokyo to attend a junior’s wedding, which also gave me a few extra days to properly explore Kanazawa and the Noto Peninsula. To be honest, when I travel, I usually care more about natural scenery and outdoor experiences than food. But this bowl of Itaru Nodoguro Kamameshi came highly recommended by friends who live in Kanazawa.
At first, I went in with a very casual mindset, more like “Alright, I’ll give it a try.” I did not expect to fall for it so completely. One bite in, and I immediately understood why people rave about it. It is the kind of dish that makes you think, I need to come back and eat this again.
Because this Nodoguro rice was honestly too good to ignore, I decided to write a dedicated article to properly recommend it to anyone planning a trip to Kanazawa. Seriously, if you come to Kanazawa and don’t try Nodoguro Kamameshi, it almost feels like you’re doing yourself a disservice.
Switch language：繁體中文
What Is Nodoguro?
I’ll admit, I’m not that familiar with fish or seafood in general, and I rarely choose seafood dishes in my everyday meals. But this time in Kanazawa, my local friends kept insisting: “You’ve got to try Nodoguro at least once.” So I finally looked it up properly.
Turns out, “Nodoguro” isn’t a specific fish name, but rather a general term for fish species with black-colored membranes in their throat and abdominal cavity. The most representative species is the Akamutsu, known in Japanese as “Nodoguro” (のどぐろ).
Nodoguro has long been considered one of the most luxurious white fish in Japan, and it continues to rank highly in gourmet rankings and premium fish comparisons in recent years.
According to Japan’s fish specialty media Sakama Zukan (サカマ図鑑), Nodoguro still ranks as a top-tier fish today. In urban markets, prices are typically around ¥15,000 to ¥20,000 per kilo (roughly USD 100–135). For comparison, bluefin tuna can cost ¥60,000–¥70,000 per kilo (USD 400–470). Judging by its price and status, it’s clear that Nodoguro is both a luxurious treat and something to be savored slowly.
Itaru Nodoguro Kamameshi Main Store
It’s not particularly hard to find Nodoguro in Japan, many izakayas offer it as sashimi, and you can also find more affordable Nodoguro dishes at Kanazawa’s famous Omicho Market. But if I were to make one sincere recommendation, it would be: don’t miss out on Nodoguro Kamameshi.
Especially at this specialty restaurant: Itaru Nodoguro Kamameshi Main Store (のど黒めし本舗いたる). This is the kind of place that, once you’ve tried it, you’ll never want to settle for less.
It’s tucked away in a small alley around Korinbo, the busiest area of central Kanazawa. If you’re not carefully following the map, it’s easy to walk right past it. But that’s also part of the charm, it really feels like a hidden gem known only to those in the know.
The restaurant has two daily opening slots: 12:00–14:30 and 17:30–20:30. As long as you arrive before opening, the wait time usually isn’t too long.
This time
I arrived around 1:30 PM, deliberately avoiding the lunch rush. As I turned into the alley from Korinbo, I saw a small line already forming in front of the restaurant.
Once you arrive, write your name and party size on the waitlist outside, then wait to be called. There were about five groups ahead of me, so I stayed nearby just in case. People kept arriving, though quite a few turned away once they saw the line.
When my name was finally called, I thought I could sit down right away, but nope, there’s an indoor waiting area too. So I was led inside to wait a bit longer (honestly, I was a little crushed at that point, haha). From the time I signed the waitlist, the total wait was around 30 to 40 minutes, which was actually faster than the one-hour wait I had mentally prepared for.
A quick note of caution: Itaru has two other branches in Kanazawa, but both are regular izakayas and do not serve Nodoguro Kamameshi. When searching on Google Maps, make sure you’re looking for “のど黒めし本舗いたる” to avoid ending up at the wrong location.
Itaru Nodoguro Kamameshi Main Store (のど黒めし本舗 いたる)
Address: 2 Chome-7-5 Katamachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0981（Google Maps）
Phone: 076-233-1147
Hours: 12:00~14:30、17:30~20:30
More Info: [Official Website] ｜ Reservations accepted by phone
Three Ways to Enjoy One Fish｜Nodoguro Kamameshi
The full set meal of Nodoguro Kamameshi costs around ¥3,300 (tax included). It includes a pot of steamed Nodoguro rice, a plate of condiments (white sesame, wasabi, chopped scallions), pickled vegetables, fish broth, and a small bowl and spoon for the final tea-infused rice step. While the portions don’t look overwhelming at first glance, it’s actually a very satisfying meal.
Before serving the main dish, the staff brings out the pickled vegetables and condiments. Then, the piping hot pot of Nodoguro rice arrives at your table.
Once seated, the staff carefully explains their signature “Three Ways to Enjoy” method, a step-by-step tasting experience they take great pride in. I highly recommend following it slowly and savoring each stage.
Step 1: Taste it Pure
For the first step, divide the rice into four portions. Take the first quarter and eat it as is, without adding anything.
Right from the first bite, you’ll realize this isn’t your average grilled fish rice. The richness of the Nodoguro fat is delicate and aromatic, and the juices have completely seeped into the rice. Every bite is moist but never greasy, with a clean yet deep flavor that makes you instinctively slow down and enjoy it mindfully.
Step 2: Add Condiments
Next, scoop another quarter of the rice into the small bowl and add condiments to taste. I added half of the scallions and white sesame seeds, a bit unsure at first, would it overpower the natural flavor of the Nodoguro?
But from the very first bite, I understood why this method is so highly recommended. Even though the plain version was already incredible, the condiments elevated the flavor to a whole new level. The scallions in particular brought out the umami so beautifully.
Step 3: Pour Over Fish Broth
For the third and final step, use the tablet on the table to order the fish broth that comes with the set. Scoop the last quarter of the rice into the bowl and add the remaining scallions and sesame seeds.
Personally, I love adding a bit of wasabi to ochazuke (tea rice). In Japan, wasabi is often freshly ground and naturally aromatic, it’s not too spicy, but really draws out the sweetness of the fish.
Once the fish broth arrives, pour it over the bowl, and it’s ready to enjoy 🎵
With the broth added, this became hands down the best ochazuke I’ve ever had in Japan. I’m not even exaggerating, it was so good I couldn’t stop eating. The wasabi added just the right kick to stimulate the palate and make me wish I had room for a second serving. Too bad my stomach had other plans, haha.
Final Thoughts
In short: this Nodoguro Kamameshi is a must-try. Even someone like me, who’s quite picky about food, was so impressed I felt compelled to write a full article about it. I promise you won’t regret it, if you’re visiting Kanazawa for sightseeing or a free & easy trip, this dish absolutely deserves a spot on your itinerary 🙂
Itaru Nodoguro Kamameshi Main Store (のど黒めし本舗 いたる)
Address: 2 Chome-7-5 Katamachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0981（Google Maps）
Phone: 076-233-1147
Hours: 12:00~14:30、17:30~20:30
More Info: [Official Website] ｜ Reservations accepted by phone
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Traveler’s Note:
The insights shared above are based on my personal experiences and subjective perspectives. When planning your trip, please consider current weather conditions and your own travel preferences.
Please note that all English articles on this site are AI-assisted translations of the original Traditional Chinese content. While every effort is made to ensure accuracy and natural flow, occasional nuances or expressions may differ. Thank you for your understanding.
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